371 replies to this topic

[ClarkSims]

I wonder if there is an easy way to take one of cans of compressed nitrogen available at the retail level, and fill the the blender with N2, to displace the normal air and oxygen.

The N2 should be cold when it comes out of the canister, and should settle to the bottom.

Another thought would be take a chunk of dry ice and put it in a tea bag steeper. Suspect the ball a few inches above the oil. After the dry ice sublimates, the blender should be filled with CO2. Slowly remove the ball, and then blend.

[stephen_b]

OK, here is my idea from reading this. The unmixed stuff settles to the bottom mostly, so why not pour off most of it, and then just pour the last part with the junk in there into the blender and turn it on for a few minutes.

It might be oversaturated -- lots of C60 without enough oil.

[free10]

OK, here is my idea from reading this. The unmixed stuff settles to the bottom mostly, so why not pour off most of it, and then just pour the last part with the junk in there into the blender and turn it on for a few minutes.

It might be oversaturated -- lots of C60 without enough oil.

It probably would be, but the particles should be now more smashed and any not dissolved yet should dissolve easily into the main body of oil once poured back into it, after a few hours or a few days. I am seeing a blender as more of a smashing of the big particles, then as a stirring machine when you didn't crush the C60 before mixing it with the olive oil.

We may be worrying way too much about getting air into the mix for a short period, since the air will rapidly leave and since both the oil and the C60 should be highly protected from any reaction to the oxygen by each other. Just my take

[tintinet]

Maybe I'll try crush and blend for my next batch. Won't be long- I'm almost through my first gram/1.5 L.

[Fred_CALICO]

Following my post of December 2
http://www.longecity...post__p__549500


I do not shake every day. About 3 minutes a week.
The color is now the same as Sara vaughter (http://c60antiaging.com). But there are still a lot of visible aggregates.
I hesitate to use the filter and the filter residue for testing with eugenol and limonene.
Perhaps placing the bottle well wrapped in clothes wringer?

[James Phillip Turpin]

Has anybody tried syringe filters? They seem to be the least expensive type of filter, but I've never used one so I don't know if they would work. I also don't know where to get glass syringes, or whether momentary contact between C60/EVOO and plastic would be bad.

[Turnbuckle]

Has anybody tried syringe filters? They seem to be the least expensive type of filter, but I've never used one so I don't know if they would work. I also don't know where to get glass syringes, or whether momentary contact between C60/EVOO and plastic would be bad.

The autofil units work great. I bought a case of the .22 micron half-liter style, and each is good for a liter or so of filtrate. Very little work involved. By comparison, expect the syringe filters to be a lot of work.

Edited by Turnbuckle, 30 January 2013 - 12:50 PM.

[niner]

Has anybody tried syringe filters? They seem to be the least expensive type of filter, but I've never used one so I don't know if they would work. I also don't know where to get glass syringes, or whether momentary contact between C60/EVOO and plastic would be bad.

Contact between C60-oo and plastic is probably ok; at least as ok as contact between plain olive oil and plastic, which probably varies depending on the plastic. A lot of oils are sold in plastic bottles. (probably PETE) so that's presumably been deemed 'safe' by someone or other. For what it's worth, a lot of people don't filter. I grind the c60 into a very fine powder, mix with olive oil (in a glass container, FWIW) and shake occasionally over the next week or so. That's it. No mag stirrer, no centrifuge, no filter.

[hav]

Has anybody tried syringe filters? They seem to be the least expensive type of filter, but I've never used one so I don't know if they would work. I also don't know where to get glass syringes, or whether momentary contact between C60/EVOO and plastic would be bad.

The autofil units work great. I bought a case of the .22 micron half-liter style, and each is good for a liter or so of filtrate. Very little work involved. By comparison, expect the syringe filters to be a lot of work.

Same setup here. But I also picked up a case of Kimax 45 ml glass bottles which cured cracks I was getting when reusing the Autofil bottles. I still see occasional small cracking in the screw area of the filter half but it doesn't seem to be causing a problem. Don't know if the similar competing products like Whatman, Nalgene, or TGSI are any better. I figure the case of Autofils I have will last about another year before I try another brand.

Also tried fine crushing the c60. The color change when mixing went faster but I still used a magnetic mixer for 2 weeks but got little change in filter residue. Out of concern that I might actually be getting more undissolved c60 smaller than 22 microns that gets past the filter, I'm going to discontinue the crushing in my next batch.

Howard

[Turnbuckle]

Has anybody tried syringe filters? They seem to be the least expensive type of filter, but I've never used one so I don't know if they would work. I also don't know where to get glass syringes, or whether momentary contact between C60/EVOO and plastic would be bad.

The autofil units work great. I bought a case of the .22 micron half-liter style, and each is good for a liter or so of filtrate. Very little work involved. By comparison, expect the syringe filters to be a lot of work.

Same setup here. But I also picked up a case of Kimax 45 ml glass bottles which cured cracks I was getting when reusing the Autofil bottles. I still see occasional small cracking in the screw area of the filter half but it doesn't seem to be causing a problem. Don't know if the similar competing products like Whatman, Nalgene, or TGSI are any better. I figure the case of Autofils I have will last about another year before I try another brand.

Also tried fine crushing the c60. The color change when mixing went faster but I still used a magnetic mixer for 2 weeks but got little change in filter residue. Out of concern that I might actually be getting more undissolved c60 smaller than 22 microns that gets past the filter, I'm going to discontinue the crushing in my next batch.

Howard

The 500 ml vessels can't take a full vacuum. If you don't use more than 300 mm Hg, they should be fine. And I wouldn't worry about small particles not dissolving. The smaller the particle, the faster it should dissolve--a matter of surface area per volume. I grind a little at a time and then add oil drop-wise as I grind, and thereafter see very little filter residue after three days of stirring.

Edited by Turnbuckle, 30 January 2013 - 07:27 PM.

[hav]

] The 500 ml vessels can't take a full vacuum. If you don't use more than 300 mm Hg, they should be fine. And I wouldn't worry about small particles not dissolving. The smaller the particle, the faster it should dissolve--a matter of surface area per volume. I grind a little at a time and then add oil drop-wise as I grind, and thereafter see very little filter residue after three days of stirring.

I have the 1-liter autofils and the docs they came with mentioned 15 inch max but I kept the pressure under 10 (below 300 mm) and still occasionally got some cracking. Guess its just a fact of life with the disposable design. But far superior to the erlenmeyer flask I tried first. I saw a neat erlenmeyer-like setup once that wasn't plastic. Glass, ceramic, and metal I believe, that involved the filter being clamped in place. But I haven't been able to locate one like that for myself. Probably costs a fortune.

Howard

[Turnbuckle]

The autofil pressure ratings are overly optimistic. But it really doesn't matter as it doesn't filter all that much faster at higher vacuums. The main problem is that you have to pump it every few minutes since there is little vacuum capacity over the filtrate. So it might make sense to rig a large container between the hand pump and the autofil and pump that down. Then you could walk away and let it do its thing.

[Andey]

Guys, please point me on what you are talking about ) Google didnt help me with this autofil thing (

[James Phillip Turpin]

I searched on amazon and found a "Sterlitech - Autofil Laboratory Filtration System 500 mL Volume, 0.22 um Filter":
http://www.amazon.co...m vacuum filter
There are also 250 mL and 1000 mL versions.
And here is a vacuum pump:
http://www.amazon.co...nd vaccuum pump

Are those the kind of components Turnbuckle and others are talking about? Does anybody know some palce that sells similar things for same or lower price as Amazon, perhaps direct from manufacturer?

[Turnbuckle]

I searched on amazon and found a "Sterlitech - Autofil Laboratory Filtration System 500 mL Volume, 0.22 um Filter":
http://www.amazon.co...m vacuum filter
There are also 250 mL and 1000 mL versions.
And here is a vacuum pump:
http://www.amazon.co...nd vaccuum pump

Are those the kind of components Turnbuckle and others are talking about? Does anybody know some palce that sells similar things for same or lower price as Amazon, perhaps direct from manufacturer?

This is what I use--http://www.scientifi...7118&fullpage=y
I connect it to a hand vacuum pump like the one you linked to. The case of 12 should be good for 12 liters, enough for a lifetime assuming you don't live forever. (It doesn't say Autofil, but that's what came from Tisch Scientific.) I wouldn't buy the full liter size as the pressure rating is less. The stand shown on the Amazon page is quite expensive but not necessary.

Edited by Turnbuckle, 31 January 2013 - 03:40 PM.

[hav]

If you get a case (12 filters+bottles) directly from Sterltech, the pedestal is on special for $20. But it isn't really necessary because each filter includes an adapter that allows attachment of the filter hose directly to the filter instead of to the pedestal. The pedestal holds up to 1 liter-sized autofils but when I switched the bottle half to the smaller capacity 500 ml Kimax glass ones, it was still slightly too tall to fit into the pedestal so I haven't been using it lately. For the hand pump, this is the one I got: Mityvac.


Howard

Edited by hav, 31 January 2013 - 05:10 PM.

[Turnbuckle]

If you get a case (12 filters+bottles) directly from Sterltech, the pedestal is on special for $20.

Howard

Then this is different from the pedestal offered by Tisch, which has a vacuum hookup built in. The cost is almost $600.

[hav]

If you get a case (12 filters+bottles) directly from Sterltech, the pedestal is on special for $20.

Howard

Then this is different from the pedestal offered by Tisch, which has a vacuum hookup built in. The cost is almost $600.

I think they're the same..

 pedestal.jpg   173.54KB   9 downloads.

[Turnbuckle]

If you get a case (12 filters+bottles) directly from Sterltech, the pedestal is on special for $20.

Howard

Then this is different from the pedestal offered by Tisch, which has a vacuum hookup built in. The cost is almost $600.

I think they're the same..

 pedestal.jpg   173.54KB   9 downloads.

That's a heck of a deal! Twenty dollars when the list price is $543.64. The markup on these things must be obscene.

Edited by Turnbuckle, 31 January 2013 - 09:19 PM.

[niner]

That's a heck of a deal! Twenty dollars when the list price is $543.64. The markup on these things must be obscene.

Wow, what's it made of, osmium?

[zorba990]

I noticed with smoothies that a hand blender seems to produce a less frothy result so that might be worth a try. The cuisinart has lasted through some icy berry blends and is relatively inexpensive.

Edited by zorba990, 31 January 2013 - 10:14 PM.

[James Phillip Turpin]

Regarding the $523.64 discount on the pedestal, they charge tax before applyin the discount. Perhaps the sales tax I'm being charged is based on my shipping address, so not everybody is charged that, but it makes the tax on the more than the $20 net charge for the item itself. Pretty funny accounting trick there. Still the best offer for that item though.

[stephen_b]

Grinding C60 by mortar and pestle, putting into oil, and shaking sounds so much easier by contrast.

[marcobjj]

Grinding C60 by mortar and pestle, putting into oil, and shaking sounds so much easier by contrast.

not to mention cost effective

[Fred_CALICO]

Grinding C60 by mortar and pestle, putting into oil, and shaking sounds so much easier by contrast.

not to mention cost effective

"shaking sounds" ... With what?

[niner]

Grinding C60 by mortar and pestle, putting into oil, and shaking sounds so much easier by contrast.

"shaking sounds" ... With what?

the word "sounds" belongs with "so much easier", as in 'seems so much easier'

[Fred_CALICO]

ok, excuse my English pitiful/pathetic.

[pleb]

i just use a large stainless steel table spoon and the end of the handle of a smaller spoon to crush 0.1 g at a time then poured into a small plastic funnel in the top of the bottle,
i pour half the oil into a cup first that is then used to wash the spoons in after crushing and then added to the rest in the bottle,

[stephen_b]

Thanks for the tip pleb. That beats buying a stainless steel mortar and pestle or staining a ceramic one with C60.

[niner]

That's a good tip from pleb. C60 crystals are really soft and easy to crush. (At the molecular level, they are like a stack of marbles) You don't need a mortar and pestle to do it; a couple spoons or various other smooth hard surfaces should be fine.