371 replies to this topic

[Huckfinn]

As someone from the mediterranean area, one thing I can say: EVOO lasts ("intact") for ages....

[Victorino]

Thanks, but no need for an opinion on olive oil, as it's been well established that many olive oils on shelves in the US are some degree of rancid.

Might be different for someone who lives in the mediterranean... Most on here do not. 

 

What I was hoping to do was start an informed discussion on Macadamia oil as a possible alternative... and any reasons why it may or may not work. 

I've read most of the C60 threads on here and it looks like it hasn't been addressed yet. 

 

---------

 

Evaluation of multiple EVOO brands

http://olivecenter.u...inalreduced.pdf

 

Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia...nd_adulteration

 

A journalists research on rancidity

http://www.truthinol...l-glitters-gold

 

60 minutes on adulterated Olive Oil

http://www.cbsnews.c...olive-oil-scam/

 

 

 

[hav]

 

Thanks, but no need for an opinion on olive oil, as it's been well established that many olive oils on shelves in the US are some degree of rancid.

Might be different for someone who lives in the mediterranean... Most on here do not. 

 

What I was hoping to do was start an informed discussion on Macadamia oil as a possible alternative... and any reasons why it may or may not work. 

I've read most of the C60 threads on here and it looks like it hasn't been addressed yet. 

 

---------

 

...

A journalists research on rancidity

http://www.truthinol...l-glitters-gold

 

...

 

If the Oleic Acid content of olive oil is of prime importance to the effectiveness of c60/evoo (fwiw, I believe that) then alternative oils with a higher percentage might be better. High quality olive oils seem to run between 75 and 80% with most I encounter closer to 75%. Macadamia Nut oils I've seen typically run around 82%. I don't know if its any more stable than olive oil in the sense that it won't spoil... they are both extremely stable in that regard if you keep them in a cool dry place free of UV.  Macadamia is considered more stable owing to its high burn point. Which I think is because its lighter and typically more free of pulp, chlorophyll, or other things that burn more easily than pure oil. Which make it a top choice for high temperature cooking like stir fry.  A gourmet probably wouldn't prefer it for a salad or to dip bread into since it has much less flavor than olive oil.  But for dissolving c60, it might soak up more and filter allot quicker.

 

Btw, gourmet olive oil and its taste standards may not be that relevant to c60/evoo, unless you're drinking a sizable amount. Favored gourmet oils tend to be thicker and either lightly or totally non filtered. Heavy filtering removes anything in suspension like pulp remnants and water soluble particulates like most polyphenols, all of high culinary value. For that reason a lighter olive oil intended for cooking might work better for dissolving c60 and filtering it than one intended for dressing and dipping.

 

The more important question is whether c60 dissolved in Macadamia or something other than olive oil would have the same effects shown by Baati.  If its all about the Oleic Acid, then it probably would.  Won't know for sure till someone tests it. In any event I'm planning on mixing some up to at least see how well c60 dissolves into it.  I'm guessing it'll take a little more than olive oil, maybe around 1 gm/l. I get around .8 gm/l with light Tunisian olive oil from Botticelli. Probably closer to .7 gm/l with a better more creamier tasting Greek oil from Roland... I stumbled on that brand in the kitchen of a little Italian restaurant.
 

Howard

 

[Victorino]

The more important question is whether c60 dissolved in Macadamia or something other than olive oil would have the same effects shown by Baati.  If its all about the Oleic Acid, then it probably would.  

 

Very good points. I think the only thing lacking in Mac Oil would be the phenols, which shouldn't affect the breaking down process. 

 

Mac Oil has much less Linoleic acid (PUFA) than EVOO, which is then replaced with higher levels of Oleic & Palmitoleic acid (MUFA). Mac oil is the highest MUFA oil there is (in my research). If the less-stable Linoleic is what absorbs the C60, then Mac would be inferior to EVOO.

 

The mediterranean-diet benefits of EVOO are likely attributed to the phenolic compounds which are numerous... Primarily oleuropein, hydroxytyrosol and tyrosol. But Oleuropein is also in olive leaf extract (which I micro-dose daily).

 

 

At any rate, I have some C60 on order and will make a batch using Macadamia. 

I usually shoot for a .667mg/ml mixture (so in 473 ml of Mac oil I'll put 1/3 g of C60)

 

Will take photos and report back on how it seems to work, relative to EVOO

[Astrocyte]

FYI

 

Hanna Instruments HI 190M Magnetic Stirrer is to be AVOIDED.

 

The internal motor cannot resist more than a couple of days under the slightest loading. Postmortem exam have shown motor brush are simple thin Cu alloy tab that will be "eaten" rapidly.

 

[Captain Obvious]

FYI

 

Hanna Instruments HI 190M Magnetic Stirrer is to be AVOIDED.

 

The internal motor cannot resist more than a couple of days under the slightest loading. Postmortem exam have shown motor brush are simple thin Cu alloy tab that will be "eaten" rapidly.

 

Damn, I wish this had been posted earlier as that's the exact stirrer I got from eBay is now in the background stirring my first batch for the fifth day or so...    

Hopefully I'll be able to finish this batch before it dies on me!

So which one is a good stirrer model then if I need to get a new one?

Edited by State of the Art, 08 March 2016 - 06:15 PM.

[Turnbuckle]

FYI

 

Hanna Instruments HI 190M Magnetic Stirrer is to be AVOIDED.

 

The internal motor cannot resist more than a couple of days under the slightest loading. Postmortem exam have shown motor brush are simple thin Cu alloy tab that will be "eaten" rapidly.

 

 

I've used this very stirrer for some 4 years now. My use is not heavy, maybe three weeks a year, and I generally use it at less than max speed.

[Heisenburger]

Get a Benchmark. The one with blue LED is really cool. I’ve stirred a liter and a quarter for up to five or six weeks straight and the damned thing didn’t even hiccup. They can take a lickin’ an’ keep on ticking. Best $200 I’ve ever spent. Comes in handy for all sorts of other things too. Once you get a good magnetic stirrer, you’ll wonder how you ever got along without one. One tip: always wash your stir bars separately from everything else. I’ve lost so many stir bars down the garbage disposal it’s not even funny.

[Astrocyte]

 

FYI

 

Hanna Instruments HI 190M Magnetic Stirrer is to be AVOIDED.

 

The internal motor cannot resist more than a couple of days under the slightest loading. Postmortem exam have shown motor brush are simple thin Cu alloy tab that will be "eaten" rapidly.

 

 

I've used this very stirrer for some 4 years now. My use is not heavy, maybe three weeks a year, and I generally use it at less than max speed.

 

 

Very lucky you are, postmortem have shown that motor brush are thin BeCu fingers.

 

Normally, motor brush use bulky graphite/Cu brush composition to allow some wear space.

 

Just the opinion of an electrical engineer...

 

 

[Turnbuckle]

 

 

FYI

 

Hanna Instruments HI 190M Magnetic Stirrer is to be AVOIDED.

 

The internal motor cannot resist more than a couple of days under the slightest loading. Postmortem exam have shown motor brush are simple thin Cu alloy tab that will be "eaten" rapidly.

 

 

I've used this very stirrer for some 4 years now. My use is not heavy, maybe three weeks a year, and I generally use it at less than max speed.

 

 

Very lucky you are, postmortem have shown that motor brush are thin BeCu fingers.

 

Normally, motor brush use bulky graphite/Cu brush composition to allow some wear space.

 

Just the opinion of an electrical engineer...

 

 

Looking at the reviews on Amazon, the 1 stars tend to be more recent while the 5 stars tend to be older, so perhaps they've changed the motor somewhere along the line. The price of graphite spiked 500% a few years ago, and I wonder if some cost cutter decided they could just do away with it. 

[amw]

Last night I made my first batch of C60OO using DeCarlo high poly content oil and SES 99.95% C60. I ground the C60 in a glass measuring cup with a spoon and added OO to it, for ease of transfer to a clear bottle that I got from IKEA that has a stopper. The concentration I used was 350mg of C60 into 500ml of OO. I shook it up initially and put it in the closet. To my surprise, this morning I went to give the solution a swirl and there were no particles!?! The solution was slightly purple and clear. Did I crush the C60 too much? It was a very fine powder when I added the OO to it. I hope I didn't destroy the particles. Has this happened to anyone before? I thought it would take at least a few days to homogenize.

[pleb]

No that's normal when it's well ground and you haven't used to much C60. It will probably turn ruby red after about four or five days. When held up to the light. I don't think that you could apply enough pressure by hand to the C60 when crushing the granuals to damage it.

Edited by pleb, 07 April 2016 - 12:35 PM.

[Captain Obvious]

C60 fullerenes are nanometer size, so you wouldn't be able to see fully dissolved individual C60 molecules except as a change of color.

[amw]

C60 fullerenes are nanometer size, so you wouldn't be able to see fully dissolved individual C60 molecules except as a change of color.

So, the absence of visible particles at the bottom of the bottle and/or in the solution, coupled with the fact that the oil is clear and not cloudy, does not necessarily mean that the solution is 'ready for consumption'. Is it recommended that I should wait until the color changes from a purple hue to that of a more red hue?

 

BTW, kudos going out to Turnbuckle for posting the link to the DeCarlo OO. It's the best I've ever had!

[hav]

 

The more important question is whether c60 dissolved in Macadamia or something other than olive oil would have the same effects shown by Baati.  If its all about the Oleic Acid, then it probably would.  

 

Very good points. I think the only thing lacking in Mac Oil would be the phenols, which shouldn't affect the breaking down process. 

 

Mac Oil has much less Linoleic acid (PUFA) than EVOO, which is then replaced with higher levels of Oleic & Palmitoleic acid (MUFA). Mac oil is the highest MUFA oil there is (in my research). If the less-stable Linoleic is what absorbs the C60, then Mac would be inferior to EVOO.

 

The mediterranean-diet benefits of EVOO are likely attributed to the phenolic compounds which are numerous... Primarily oleuropein, hydroxytyrosol and tyrosol. But Oleuropein is also in olive leaf extract (which I micro-dose daily).

 

 

At any rate, I have some C60 on order and will make a batch using Macadamia. 

I usually shoot for a .667mg/ml mixture (so in 473 ml of Mac oil I'll put 1/3 g of C60)

 

Will take photos and report back on how it seems to work, relative to EVOO

 

 

I have some Mac Oil on order and will try it too. I usually mix with .8 mg/l of c60 to Olive Oil but the Mac Oil I ordered has a little higher MUFA content so I think I'll try for a bit more c60. Maybe 1.5 mg/l.  I ordered Piping Rock Mac Oil which lists 15 ml as having 2.2 g Saturated Fatty Acid, 0.3 g PUFA, and 11 g MUFA.  I calculate 81.5% MUFA. The Roland Greek Olive Oil I've been using lately comes in at around 74%.  I doubt the full 1.5 mg/l will all dissolve but I'll filter it and see if I can get someone to analyze what the ending concentration is.

 

Howard
 

[Nate-2004]

Might have posted to the wrong thread. Posting here instead:

 

I got SES 99.5% reagent purity out of some confusion from an earlier post by Turnbuckle, is that not pure enough? Should I be doing 99.95 "ultra pure Vacuum oven dried" instead?

 

Also the stirrer I got doesn't seem to spin the bar in place, it just bounces around the glass at low speeds or stands on one end at higher speeds. I'm quite confused and have little experience with magnetic stirrers. Any ideas on what might be wrong?

[Captain Obvious]

Must be something to do with the dynamics of the liquid. I would try bottles of different shape and diameter. Also if you got several sizes of magnetic bars with the stirrer (you can find those separately on ebay), so i would try with those as well.

[Nate-2004]

I sent back the magnetic stirrer and got a new one, it works perfectly now.

 

That said, I got the C60 from SES, the 99.5%. I was going to return it after having ordered the 99.95% but then realized it doesn't really matter that much and also I need practice making this stuff and what better stuff to practice with than the cheaper stuff.

 

So my first exposure to the stuff was confusing when it came to the instructions. First off I realized I needed a precision scale, dividing it into 12 or 13 equal piles is not sufficient measurement and it's wasteful.  

 

I also realized I am not sure how I was going to go about making the stuff, would I do all one big batch or would I do 250ml at a time. I figure I do 250ml or less at a time for the sake of practice and because the stirrer can probably handle that better. 

 

Then here's where the problem came up: 

 

Turnbuckle talks about "grinding" the SES C60 powder or else it'll take way too long to mix.  When I dumped it into the mortar I had, turns out it's not much to grind. It's already a fine powder to begin with. How do I know when it's ground enough? How do I grind 175mg of the stuff for 250ml? It's such a small amount and such a fine powder that it seems almost needless to grind. My experience of "grinding" it with a stainless steel bowl and pestle was as if I was wasting some of it, as it's so fine that it gets stuck to the bowl and pestle. I really didn't feel like I was grinding at all, it wasn't much to grind. It's not easy to just "wash away" with oil either. I had to scrape it off the bottom. I'm so glad I tested all this with the 95.5 and not the more expensive 95.95.

 

Any ideas on how to "grind" or should I need to? Opinions?

Edited by Nate-2004, 11 May 2016 - 02:05 PM.

[niner]

C60 is very soft, so the "grinding" is more like "smooshing".  It's kind of sticky, and you have to scrape it off the mortar.  Some will be left behind.  If you want an accurate dose, you could measure the c60 after you grind it, rather than before.  Don't try to make the c60oo too concentrated.  0.5 mg/ml is a good concentration.  It's easier to get it dissolved, but not too much oil for a normal dose.  It's not essential that you grind the c60.  It just makes things go faster.  It's particularly important when you don't have a magnetic stirrer.

[Turnbuckle]

 

 

Turnbuckle talks about "grinding" the SES C60 powder or else it'll take way too long to mix.  When I dumped it into the mortar I had, turns out it's not much to grind. It's already a fine powder to begin with. How do I know when it's ground enough? How do I grind 175mg of the stuff for 250ml? It's such a small amount and such a fine powder that it seems almost needless to grind. My experience of "grinding" it with a stainless steel bowl and pestle was as if I was wasting some of it, as it's so fine that it gets stuck to the bowl and pestle. I really didn't feel like I was grinding at all, it wasn't much to grind. It's not easy to just "wash away" with oil either. I had to scrape it off the bottom. I'm so glad I tested all this with the 95.5 and not the more expensive 95.95.

 

Any ideas on how to "grind" or should I need to? Opinions?

 

 

The "washing" is done by adding more oil, grinding a bit more--which is really not grinding with the lubrication--and emptying it into the container you will use for stirring, and repeating with more oil until you've used up all the oil allotted for your mix. Since I also add extra hydroxytyrosol (Olea25) to the mix, I add that to the ground C60 before adding any oil and grind it up a bit more, and that reduces sticking to the stainless surfaces.

 

Hydroxytyrosol is already present in EVOO, but in small and variable amounts.

 

 

Edited by Turnbuckle, 11 May 2016 - 09:37 PM.

[Nate-2004]

 

 

 

Turnbuckle talks about "grinding" the SES C60 powder or else it'll take way too long to mix.  When I dumped it into the mortar I had, turns out it's not much to grind. It's already a fine powder to begin with. How do I know when it's ground enough? How do I grind 175mg of the stuff for 250ml? It's such a small amount and such a fine powder that it seems almost needless to grind. My experience of "grinding" it with a stainless steel bowl and pestle was as if I was wasting some of it, as it's so fine that it gets stuck to the bowl and pestle. I really didn't feel like I was grinding at all, it wasn't much to grind. It's not easy to just "wash away" with oil either. I had to scrape it off the bottom. I'm so glad I tested all this with the 95.5 and not the more expensive 95.95.

 

Any ideas on how to "grind" or should I need to? Opinions?

 

 

The "washing" is done by adding more oil, grinding a bit more--which is really not grinding with the lubrication--and emptying it into the container you will use for stirring, and repeating with more oil until you've used up all the oil allotted for your mix. Since I also add extra hydroxytyrosol (Olea25) to the mix, I add that to the ground C60 before adding any oil and grind it up a bit more, and that reduces sticking to the stainless surfaces.

 

Hydroxytyrosol is already present in EVOO, but in small and variable amounts.

http://www.ncbi.nlm....pubmed/24219356

 

 

Thanks for the tips to both you guys!

 

The oil I bought was from Italy, it was one you linked to in another thread and had a very high polyphenol count of 917mg/kg and was the most recent harvest date I could find. Should be good enough. 

 

I will look into that Olea25 stuff for future batches.  I got a better mortar and pestle on Amazon and a neat 250ml beaker with a stopper I can use for the container to empty it into for the stirrer. You mention putting it into a dark place so I may put it in my closet where there's a plug, that should dampen the sound at night while it's stirring.

[Huckfinn]

Thanks for the tip Turnbuckle.
How much Olea25/lt do you add?

[Turnbuckle]

Thanks for the tip Turnbuckle.
How much Olea25/lt do you add?

 

See mix #8 of this post.

[Heisenburger]

Hot tip: there’s some guy on eBay selling Benchmarks at ridiculously cheap prices. He’s got a regular one for $89.00, and he’s got a heated one for $129.00. I bought the heated one, and it came in about three days, postage paid. Seems like a nice guy, too—pretty ethical operator. I bought the regular one first, and then a couple of minutes later saw the heated one. I immediately PMed him through eBay and asked if I could cancel the order and get the heated one instead. He didn’t give me any grief; he just cancelled the order and a couple of minutes later I bought the heated one. I’m taking it for some test spins right now. It’s definitely not counterfeit—this thing is heavy, well-built, and solid as a rock. I am happier than the proverbial pig in poop right now. I’ve wanted the hotplate model for years now, but have never been able to afford one. I’ll dig up the link and post it in a few minutes.

 

ETA: can't find a direct link at the moment, but he goes by the username 'mrandmrsgem.' And I was wrong about the shipping. It wasn't free. It was $14.00.

Edited by Heisenburger, 25 August 2016 - 05:33 PM.

[Heisenburger]

Here's the hotplate model:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/232044360764

 

Can't find the other one. Must be using the search box wrong or something. He's got an incredibly high feedback rating, so I'm sure everything's on the up-and-up.

 

I’ve been toying with it all day. I have absolutely no idea what all those amazon reviewers are going on and on about, saying that they’re useless because even the lowest setting boils water. It just isn’t true. At setting 3 (it goes 0 -10), water heats to 129° F (verified with three thermometers) and stays there. I don’t know what they’re smoking, but it’s not true. Maybe they used to do that, but Benchmark fixed the problem—I dunno.

[lost69]

sorry if anybody did this question before, i am planning to do C60 myself stirring manually for 1 month and with no filtering

 

according to your experience...will i be able to avoid crystals and deposits using SES 99.99% UHP?from previous posts i understand that if it doesn t dissolve well it my not work and that the higest purity c60 is very difficult to dissolve manually

 

is it better to go with 99.95% ultra pure vacuum over dried to make it manually?

 

about me:

i'm 47yo, very good genes from both mother family and father family, especially father because grandfather and his brothers/sisters reached 90yo looking 20years younger and no wrinkles at 88yo same from my grandmother from my mother's family about wrinkles but less longevity (grandfather died at 93yo by pneumonia because exposed to very cold temps by mistake and he only had some hering loss no other health issues at all) so all died around 95yo or little later in his family.i also have no wrinkles  or problems with body fat/metabolism of my age so i want to prevent or boost this younger look or this longevity from my family.just made a big mistake loosing weight from 70kg to 66kg (height 176cm) in few weeks in july by heavy swimming, i didn t know losing weight so fast is dangerous for face skin (i was so slim that also lost muscles mass) but recovering now by eating a lot

Edited by ste, 11 September 2016 - 10:12 AM.

[lost69]

by the way we self produce our olive oil and i can have it also from no polluted areas, so i guess i just have to get the fresh olive oil for the least peroxidation issues right?

[lost69]

i bought c60 from SES, magnetic stirrer, still missing bottle....what would you suggest?

 

i also found some tools to extract air from the bottle but they require normal bottles, are normal bottles suitable to make C60 as long as i can put the bar inside the bottle?or normal bottles can have issues like the bottom being not flat?

[Huckfinn]

I use one of these:

https://www.amazon.c...s/dp/B00004SAF4

[lost69]

I use one of these:

https://www.amazon.c...s/dp/B00004SAF4

 

so you use normal bottles?not lab bottles