371 replies to this topic

[Turnbuckle]

Just using a magnetic stirrer alone is not going to prevent any extra oxidization. The container will need to be free of oxygen and sealed to prevent any from getting in. Also, you will need to do it in a dark area unless your container does the job of keeping the light out.

The best way is to drop the C60 and the stirrer in the original bottle and recap.

[mikeinnaples]

Just using a magnetic stirrer alone is not going to prevent any extra oxidization. The container will need to be free of oxygen and sealed to prevent any from getting in. Also, you will need to do it in a dark area unless your container does the job of keeping the light out.

The best way is to drop the C60 and the stirrer in the original bottle and recap.

Yeah I would have to agree with this as the only additional oxygen would come come from the air being recycled when you opened it. Of course each and every time you open the bottle you do the same thing. Hmm.

I am still curious as to what happens with the C60EVOO itself when exposed to oxygen and if we are worrying this too much. Honestly I could care less about the rest of the EVOO that isn't attached to the C60 in the bottle. It can't be any worse than buying an oil of questionable quality from a supermarket.

[niner]

Someone who'd worked at Luna posted here a while back and said that you would definitely have C60 epoxides forming unless you took care with it. And there's a paper saying the same thing--

When fullerene C60 was dissolved in selected lipids (ethyl oleate, ethyl linoleate, linseed oil and castor oil) the spectrophotometric analysis shows that the oxidation is concentrated to C60 which is converted to an epoxide C60O.

Is this a bad thing? Don't know, but it's different from the rat paper, so you're taking a chance. And if you go by the free-radical TOA, using up any part of C60's scavenging ability before you ever use it can't be a good thing.

Well, it's not THAT different from the rat paper, in that they probably got a little oxidation while they were stirring, filtering, and centrifuging. Poly-substituted c60 still seems to maintain a reasonable ability to pick up and delocalize an electron, so the occasional epoxide isn't likely to cause much of a problem. I agree that reasonable precautions against oxidation are perfectly sensible.

[mikeinnaples]

Poured some of my mix into a glass to check it just now. It is darker and rust colored compared to what the EVOO looked originally, well at least in my kitchen lighting. I took it into a dark room and shined a flashlight through it and it looks blood red

[mikeinnaples]

Here is the picture

 photo.JPG   84.61KB   37 downloads

[mikeinnaples]

It has only been a week, and my color seems pretty good though I would prefer it to be more purple than red. I do still have a lot of particles in all three of my EVOO bottles when I back light them with a LED. Trying to decide now if I should just use coffee filters to get out the larger particles or give it a few more days. Given how much aire I got into my EVOO, I think it would be prudent for me to get it in the freezer asap.

Any thoughts?

[pleb]

from all my reading on this, red is the colour it turns when the C60 is fully dissolved quite a few on here mention purple then to red as they have followed the change,
my own bottles 5 x 500 mlt to date have all followed the purple then to red phase,
i think the colour you have shown is great , mine is more a ruby red, (less opaque) but that's probably a refractory effect looking through the glass at my kitchen light,
a few have mentioned freezing it and that it doesn't deteriorate mine has all been snaffled by friends and relatives before i can do that,, lol
I'm have to pinch some back in small bottles until i can make another for myself ,

[niner]

It has only been a week, and my color seems pretty good though I would prefer it to be more purple than red. I do still have a lot of particles in all three of my EVOO bottles when I back light them with a LED. Trying to decide now if I should just use coffee filters to get out the larger particles or give it a few more days. Given how much aire I got into my EVOO, I think it would be prudent for me to get it in the freezer asap.

Any thoughts?

I'd give it more time. The particles that are left are undoubtedly the larger ones, and they will just take longer to dissolve and react. I think the color is ok- it will probably get a little darker when all the c60 has reacted. If you want to use some, just draw it off the top. I wouldn't freeze it until all the particles are gone.

[Raza]

We mixed our C60 ten days or so ago, 2x 500mg in 750ml of OO. (a 99,5%, but specifically purified for volatiles, which Solaris now sells for use in human products. Good experience buying from them.)

For the first 500mg we tried to use a chemist's mortal and pestle, but that didn't turn out to be such a great idea. The resulting powder was so fine that the finely coarse grinding surfaces appeared to be turned into polished metal by the end of it, their surfaces saturated with C60 to perfect smoothness, and after careful brushing we only got 300mgs back out. We put some olive oil in the pestle and are hoping it'll dissolve there eventually.

The second 500mg we crushed in the bottle with the surprisingly suitable pump-handle of a steel syringe, and added to the OO like that.

Been storing it in the dark, but at room temperature for the duration of dissolution. The color has gotten a bit redder so far, but not overwhelmingly so, and there is still plenty of C60 at the bottom when I shake them every day.

[ClarkSims]

Does anyone have a suggestion on where I could buy a magnetic stirrer for not too much money?
This blender looks like a good size for a 1.25 litter batch with 1g of C60. http://www.amazon.co...r/dp/B00023XDIQ

I have an unused bathroom, which I use a dark room for preparing C60, so it doesn't matter if the container is clear.

Also, I should probably start filtering my C60 / OO, with something better than a coffee filter. Does anyone have a suggestion on where to get good filters / vacuum pumps?

BTW, I am noticing something very interesting with my latest batch. I am now using the 99.95 vacuum baked C60. I ground it to fine dust with a mortar and pestle. After 4 days, the C60 OO, is yellow fluid with a black suspension. Previously I had used a slightly lower grade, 99.5. The 99.5 turns red within 24 hours, if I grind it to a fine powder and put it in OO. I was so surprised at how long this was taking, that I double checked the shipping order, to make sure they shipped me C60. The invoice says C60. I wish I hadn't thrown out the bottle.

I have dregs from the older batches I have made in the last 6 months. The dregs from the older batches, turns OO dark red within 24 hours, if I regrind them, and put in fresh C60. It is actually faster to just reuse the old dregs than use the new C60.

The dregs seem almost magical. Now matter how many times I use them, there are still plenty of dregs left, and the still turn OO a dark ruby red. I can see the quantity of dregs decreasing with the last few batches though.

[ClarkSims]

For the first 500mg we tried to use a chemist's mortal and pestle, but that didn't turn out to be such a great idea. The resulting powder was so fine that the finely coarse grinding surfaces appeared to be turned into polished metal by the end of it, their surfaces saturated with C60 to perfect smoothness, and after careful brushing we only got 300mgs back out. We put some olive oil in the pestle and are hoping it'll dissolve there eventually.

I have a mortar and pestle that I use only for C60. I don't wash it out. I just wrap it in cellophane, and put it in my refrigerator. I wrap the mortar and the pestle separately, so there is a good fit, and as little air as possible under the cellophane.

I also rinse the mortar with olive oil.
I start with 2 olive oil bottles, grind the C60.
I pour olive oil into the mortar, swish with the pestle and pour into the second bottle with a funnel.
I rinse it perhaps 10 times.
By the time I am done the OO, in the mortar comes out almost yellow, though the outsides of the mortar usually have C60/OO all over them.
I would like a mortar with a pour spout, like a measuring cup.

After I wrote the above description, I found this on my first Google:

http://www1.macys.co...4660|-|DDvVtrQ2

I should probably get this so I can stop the spillage over the side of the mortar.

Edited by ClarkSims, 26 March 2013 - 07:32 PM.

[niner]

BTW, I am noticing something very interesting with my latest batch. I am now using the 99.95 vacuum baked C60. I ground it to fine dust with a mortar and pestle. After 4 days, the C60 OO, is yellow fluid with a black suspension. Previously I had used a slightly lower grade, 99.5. The 99.5 turns red within 24 hours, if I grind it to a fine powder and put it in OO. I was so surprised at how long this was taking, that I double checked the shipping order, to make sure they shipped me C60.

The lower purity c60 dissolves faster because the other 0.5% is mostly c70. Because c60 is round and c70 is ovoid, the c70 disrupts the c60 crystal structure, causing it to fall apart easier. If it's talking longer with the higher purity c60, that's actually a good sign, since it means it's more pure. You'll need to give it more time, but it will react eventually. Things go quicker and cleaner if you make a slightly dilute solution of c60-oo. Instead of trying to make it 0.8mg/ml, I used 1.5 L with a gram of c60. That's 0.667mg/ml, and is two 750ml bottles of oil, which is one of the most common sizes.

[GVA]

BTW, I am noticing something very interesting with my latest batch. I am now using the 99.95 vacuum baked C60. I ground it to fine dust with a mortar and pestle. After 4 days, the C60 OO, is yellow fluid with a black suspension. Previously I had used a slightly lower grade, 99.5. The 99.5 turns red within 24 hours, if I grind it to a fine powder and put it in OO. I was so surprised at how long this was taking, that I double checked the shipping order, to make sure they shipped me C60.

The lower purity c60 dissolves faster because the other 0.5% is mostly c70. Because c60 is round and c70 is ovoid, the c70 disrupts the c60 crystal structure, causing it to fall apart easier. If it's talking longer with the higher purity c60, that's actually a good sign, since it means it's more pure. You'll need to give it more time, but it will react eventually. Things go quicker and cleaner if you make a slightly dilute solution of c60-oo. Instead of trying to make it 0.8mg/ml, I used 1.5 L with a gram of c60. That's 0.667mg/ml, and is two 750ml bottles of oil, which is one of the most common sizes.

Really, it is known that the less pure samples of C60 fullerene, the easier and faster they are dissolved in organic solvents. The reason for it is the presence in C60 samples of microimpurities of others fullerenes and molecules of organic solvents which were used at chromatographic purification at final stage of their synthesis.

[ClarkSims]

We mixed our C60 ten days or so ago, 2x 500mg in 750ml of OO. (a 99,5%, but specifically purified for volatiles, which Solaris now sells for use in human products. Good experience buying from them.)

At $59 / g for C60 that has been purified for volatiles, this sounds like a great deal. Do you know how they do the purification? Vacuum baking?

http://www.solarischem.com/C60.html

[NanoDoom]

Does anyone know how high temperatures the C60-oo adducts can sustain?

And I do mean, once they are formed.
I'm not talking about heating the OO to speed of the process.

I'd like to know if the finished c60-OO can be heated - and how much it can handle, without being destroyed.

[Fred_CALICO]

I made a purchase at Solaris biocompatible C60, here is their response:

"For SOL5060X, C60 passes a treatment reduces volatiles (residual solvents and purification sublimable small organic molecules up to 400 degrees C under reduced pressure) to less than 50 ppm combined. For payment, we charge your credit card if you're Canadian Dollar suits because the rate is 1:1 for us.

Sincerely,

stone




Pierre-Louis Brunner M.Sc.
President

Solaris Inc Chem.

[niner]

Does anyone know how high temperatures the C60-oo adducts can sustain?

And I do mean, once they are formed.
I'm not talking about heating the OO to speed of the process.

I'd like to know if the finished c60-OO can be heated - and how much it can handle, without being destroyed.

Why do you want to know? Are you thinking of using it in cooking? I don't recommend that...

[NanoDoom]

Why do you want to know? Are you thinking of using it in cooking? I don't recommend that...

To make a topical for hair (re)growth.
I want to extract other compounds into the c60-OO.

I need to get it to about 100 Celsius for roughly 3 hours.

You say you do not recommend it, but what do you base that on?

Thanks.

[GVA]

It has only been a week, and my color seems pretty good though I would prefer it to be more purple than red. I do still have a lot of particles in all three of my EVOO bottles when I back light them with a LED. Trying to decide now if I should just use coffee filters to get out the larger particles or give it a few more days. Given how much aire I got into my EVOO, I think it would be prudent for me to get it in the freezer asap.

Any thoughts?

I'd give it more time. The particles that are left are undoubtedly the larger ones, and they will just take longer to dissolve and react. I think the color is ok- it will probably get a little darker when all the c60 has reacted. If you want to use some, just draw it off the top. I wouldn't freeze it until all the particles are gone.

As of “To The Question On The Formation Possibility Of Some “Adducts” Of Ñ60 With Fatty Acids During C60 Dissolution In Olive Oil”, Pl see info on the following thread - http://www.longecity...iple-in-c60-oo/
Sincerely yours,
GVA

[priestess355]

I'd also like to know what happens when the oil is heated. To mix it I accidentally got it up to 120C when I wanted to get it to 80C.
Will it cause issues?

[mikela]

Wondering if an old 33 rpm record player and a mason jar would work?

Edited by mikela, 04 April 2013 - 03:31 AM.

[NanoDoom]

I'd also like to know what happens when the oil is heated. To mix it I accidentally got it up to 120C when I wanted to get it to 80C.
Will it cause issues?

Bumping this in hopes of same.

[niner]

I need to get it to about 100 Celsius for roughly 3 hours.

You say you do not recommend it, but what do you base that on?

C60 is a pretty reactive compound, as are the unsaturated fatty acids in olive oil. Heat exponentially accelerates chemical reactions. Would it be possible to extract the substances that require heating first, and then add the c60? That might be a little safer. It would also help if you could exclude oxygen from the oil while you heat it, but that's probably not essential. Just don't get it any hotter than you need to. If you can heat it in a water bath without getting water in the oil, that will ensure that it stays at 100C, as long as it doesn't dry out. Three hours is a long time, and you might need to refill it.

Wondering if an old 33 rpm record player and a mason jar would work?

No. Not even close. Not really necessary, either.

[Turnbuckle]

I'd like to know if the finished c60-OO can be heated - and how much it can handle, without being destroyed.

"Finished C60-OO" likely consists of all sorts of things. And it keeps reacting after it's dissolved, so it's not really "finished." Adding heat will speed things up, but it will also promote new reactions. So do let us know how it works out for you.

[Turnbuckle]

Wondering if an old 33 rpm record player and a mason jar would work?

Yes, that would work. For example, you could place a horseshoe magnet around the spindle and support the Mason jar above the turntable so that the jar doesn't turn. Drop in your magnetic stirrer and turn it on. It won't be as good as a real magnetic stirrer, but it will be a lot better than letting it sit.

[niner]

Wondering if an old 33 rpm record player and a mason jar would work?

Yes, that would work. For example, you could place a horseshoe magnet around the spindle and support the Mason jar above the turntable so that the jar doesn't turn. Drop in your magnetic stirrer and turn it on. It won't be as good as a real magnetic stirrer, but it will be a lot better than letting it sit.

Oh, as a stirrer! I thought he wanted to use it as a centrifuge.... That would be pretty far from the million or so g's needed to remove particles smaller than the 220 nm filter. mikela, just as a point of reference, a lot of us neither stir nor filter our c60-oo.

[mikela]

The thought I had was that maybe using a 33 rpm record player might speed up the process of stirring the mixture. Maybe even adding marbles or ball bearings in the bottom of the jar to assist in mixing. I just added .5 g of 99.95 C60 to 600ml of McEvoy EVOO and shook it as many are doing after trying to crush the C60 with a large spoon. It has been about 24 hours now and the mixture is whiskey colored. I just order a stainless steel mortar and pestle to hopefully make crushing it easier...using the spoons was dicey at best.

[Turnbuckle]

If you want to make a magnetic stirrer, you could use an old computer fan--
http://www.instructa...gnetic-Stirrer/

[ClarkSims]

If you want to make a magnetic stirrer, you could use an old computer fan--
http://www.instructa...gnetic-Stirrer/

The page said:
I needed a magnetic stirrer to keep some cells agitated for cell culture, but didn't want to spend the thirty or so dollars needed to buy one.

Does anyone know where I could get a magnetic stirrer for $30? I am seeing prices more like $200.

[Turnbuckle]

If you want to make a magnetic stirrer, you could use an old computer fan--
http://www.instructa...gnetic-Stirrer/

The page said:
I needed a magnetic stirrer to keep some cells agitated for cell culture, but didn't want to spend the thirty or so dollars needed to buy one.

Does anyone know where I could get a magnetic stirrer for $30? I am seeing prices more like $200.

https://www.google.c...iw=1536&bih=688