3 replies to this topic

[Elkaer]

Hi everybody.

 

I see alot of people are using HA to formulate their own creams.

This should be of interest: http://barefacedtrut...ze-does-matter/

 

Opinions?

 

[AppliedBio]

This should go in the Ageless Looks sub-forum

[aconita]

As far as I know HA research is amazingly still in its infancy, some mechanism are kind of unclear and the last word seems far from be written yet.

 

I am aware of the suspected negative effect of too short HA chains, ultra low molecular weights advertised by sellers are likely unnecessary and possibly harmful.

 

What I don't like about the linked article is their definitions of different HA molecular sizes, low, medium and high mean nothing, those aren't objective parameters, proper size is measured in Daltons and that is the only measure leaving nothing to guessing.

 

Since HA comes from few KDa to several millions DA definitions as low or high are too vague.

 

What I know for sure is that up to 400KDa HA is able to permeate the skin barrier reaching the blood stream (going systemic), higher than that likely just acts as a moisturizer, a very efficient and convenient one but not much more than that, therefore all the pro inflammation cascade described unlikely to be able to even get a start.

 

400KDa is indeed "low" if we consider endogenous HA is more in the millions Da range (let say 3-4 millions average) but can be as low as 5KDa as well...therefore would 400KDa, which in my personal view could be the most interesting size for topical use, be low enough to trigger negative cascade events?

 

My personal anecdotal experience seems to show no negative effects both on intact skin or on small wounds, abrasions and  peelings, isn't miraculously taking years off my skin neither, is a very practical, cheap and easy base/carrier for other water-soluble compounds, if somehow counteracts or enhances their effects I can't say for certain. 

[Deckah]

From what I see, most HA sold by powder companies is around 1.1-1.3m daltons. Bulksupplements is claimed to be 1.1m in size.

Bulkactives has a 50k size low HA which they say doesn't stimulate an immune response.

Verylow molecular weight HA species [approximately 20 kDa or below], actually have pro-inflammatory effects and cause or increase inflammation. These HA species can bind to receptors on macrophages in the dermis, Toll-like receptor 2 and 4, and initiate an immune response.

→ source (external link)

 

Link above. There are other reputable skin sites that corroborate the sentiment of bulkactives as well.
If using only a low HA(50k) which doesn't gel, you can get gelmaker which at around 0.5%-1% can give your product a slight gel to it. Bulkactives and other sites have some gums that gel and also has beneficial humectant moisturizing properties.

 

Probably best to combine a high HA(1m+) and a low HA(50k).

Careful getting just any low HA (as said by aconita). A few other sites list their powders as low, but are actually in the realm of being considered "ultra low" @ around less than 50k.

Edited by Deckah, 21 September 2017 - 03:56 PM.